Vines and Ground covers If you live in the warm SOUTHERN STATES

CAROLINA YELLOW JESSAMINE - Is a showy twining vine reaching 30 feet in length with yellow flowers in spring and wine-red foliage in winter. While it will grow in sun, it prefers some shade and a slightly acid soil. Look for it under the scientific name of Gelsemium sempervirens.

CREEPING FIG - Found clinging to walls of old New Orleans buildings this handsome vine is favored for modern gardens too. Nurseries list it as Ficus pumila. It likes a slightly acid soil, and thrives in sun or shade.

SOUTHERN SMILAX - Tendrils support this vine on arbors where it may be kept in bounds by pruning. Fruit clusters last well into the winter, and the foliage is sought for Christmas decorations. Botanically minded people call it Smilax lem- ceolutcz. It likes a moist, acid soil and some shade, but does well in ordinary garden soil and in the sun.

ENGLISH IVY - Called Hedera Helix, this vine and ground cover has many varieties some with variegated foliage and most of which are hardy outdoors in the South. It forms a low mat-like cover in sun or shade and some varieties reach 50 feet in height climbing a wall or tree.

CROSS-VINE - Red brown flowers in May distinguish this handsome vine whose tendrils secure it to a fence or trellis. Give it acid soil and either shade or sun. Its scientific name is Bienonia capreolata.

CARPET BUGLE-WEED - In spring spikes of blue flowers appear on this ground-hugging plant, which thrives in the shade but which also does well in sun. Its only demand is a friable and fairly fertile soil. It is listed in catalogs as Ajuga reptans.

COMMON PERIWINKLE - A dependable ground cover for sun or shade, Vinca minor has good blue flowers in spring. Any soil seems to please it and it rarely grows over 6 inches high. Use it beneath trees, under shrubs or in difficult to mow areas.

CONFEDERATE JASMINE - A strong grower, Trachelospermum jasminoides twines on fences and pergolas in the lower and mid-South but needs protection in the colder areas. Its white spring flowers are sweetly scented, and its foliage is glossy green. The flowers along with stephanotis floribunda flowers are popularly used in wedding bouquets. Just like stephanotis vine or Madagascar Jasmine, plant it in a neutral or acid soil in sun or partial shade.

JAPANESE PACHYSANDRA - For large shaded areas this coarse textured ground cover 8 to 10 inches high is ideal. It likes an acid soil well supplied with humus. Nurseries sometimes list it as Pachysandra terminals.

LILY-TURF - ln any good garden soil in sun or shade this low growing grass-like ground cover finds a home. Known almost equally as well as liriope, there are several varieties worth investigating: Liriope exifiora, Liriope japonicus, Liriope muscari var. Majestic. All have good lavender flowers and may be used to border walks or beds, or cover banks.

Any corrective pruning should be finished in February. Remember to paint all wounds over one inch in diameter with a pliable water-proof paint. This prevents drying out and checking of the wood and resultant decay and also prevents the entrance of disease or insects.

Do not prune the early flowering shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, spirea, quince, currant, red bud, peach, etc., until after flowering as any material removed now will reduce the number of flowers. Prune these after flowering to encourage new growth for blooms next year.

This is the month to do shearing or pruning of evergreens as they are usually unsightly after this operation, but with the beginning of new growth, they are unsightly for a shorter period of time. Prune the flowering shrubs that bear their blooms on new wood like althea, vitex, crape myrtle, and buddleia - this will stimulate flower production.

Whatever pruning you do, especially on your shade grapes trees, be sure you know what you are doing or call a recognized tree surgeon. Do not butcher your trees or allow inexperienced “tree surgeons” to do so. Irreparable damage can be done and often results in the death of the tree.

Birds

Repair and paint the bird houses early and get ready for new tenants. Birds do not care for the smell of paint, so allow time enough for the smell to weather out. Avoid the use of metal on bird houses or feeding stations it reflects light and is also noisy, both of which will scare birds. Remember, they are extremely wary and are easily frightened away, never to return.

Encourage your youngsters to provide and care for the facilities for the birds. They will very soon become “bird-watchers,” giving them a wholesome pastime and invaluable training in conservation and nature study.

February is the month to bring in potted tulips, daffodils and other bulbs and start them to growing. Keep in a fairly cool place until the foliage turns green and then keep the temperatures under 60 degrees until the buds form. This will prevent ungainly growth or “leggy” stems.

Feed with liquid food after the foliage turns green to improve the overall quality of the blooms. This feeding gives intensity of color and beautiful substance to the petals as well as increasing the size of bloom.

On those few days of inclement weather, rework the house plants. For those plants that have spindled, or “leggy” growth, due to lack of sunshine or crowded conditions, pinch back to stimulate new growth and bloom. Take out a little of the, top soil in the pot and replace with fresh potting soil. Feed lightly with liquid food or a dissolved commercial fertilizer.

Divide or make cuttings of the plants that have spent the winter indoors and will soon be planted in the garden border such as geraniums, coleus, hibiscus, Jacobs coat, etc. Prepare the potted plants for a return to “garden duty” during the summer months.

Many such plants provide a point of accent or spot of color in a garden or patio design.

All untreated seeds carry on or within them microscopic fungi and bacteria. Hundreds of kinds of seed-borne organisms, capable of causing plant diseases exist. These fungi and bacteria may cause seeds to decay in the soil and young seedlings, bulbs, corms or rhizomes to rot before or after shoots emerge from the soil.

Organisms carried on the seed may also be the source of certain types of dwarfing or stunting, root rots, smuts, wilts, mildews, leaf spot and blights, stripe diseases, etc., which later appear on the growing plant.

Practically all vegetable and flower seeds benefit from seed treatment. Seed protectants, properly applied at the recommended dosage, destroy seed-borne organisms on and in the seed, check seed-rotting fungi in the soil, help establish a higher percentage of more vigorous seedlings, plus producing bigger yields of higher quality vegetables and flowers.

No other garden practice produces such benefits for so little money and time. Seed treatment is cheap garden insurance.

Influencing Factors

Certain factors influence the infection of seed and young seedlings by micro-organisms.

1 - Climatic conditions during the latter part of the growing season of the seed-producing mother plant. Some organisms may enter seed about the time of pollination, particularly if the period is humid. or wet.

2 - State of maturity when seed is harvested.

3 - Climatic conditions just before and during harvest. If the seed is too dry at harvest it is easily damaged. Organisms then enter through the cracks in the seed coat. If seeds harvested too wet it may mold and not even germinate later. Seed which is harvested with a high moisture content should be carefully dried.

4 - The method used and rapidity of artificial drying may greatly change the numbers of organisms on and in the seed.

5 - Conditions of seed storage and duration of storage. Seeds stored with a high moisture content may “spoil” or “heat,” killing the germ in the seed. Each kind of seed` should be stored under carefully regulated conditions and be checked periodically. Older seed becomes weak and should be discarded.

The above factors are good reasons why you should buy- seed, only from established, reputable seed dealers. Check with your county agent or extension horticulturist if you are not sure of the seed source or distributor. Ask the salesman what the germination percentage is of the seed you buy. Frequently it is stamped right on the package.

Most vegetable seed, especially that sold by the better seedsmen, has a high germination percentage (85 per cent or more), excellent beauty insurance and is free from seed borne diseases and garden weed seeds. Some of this seed has already been treated by the time you purchase it.

It is not too uncommon to find packets of flower seeds which have a zero germination. Is it any wonder sometimes that the seed doesn’t sprout?

Reputable seedsmen call in all unsold seed each year to be sure you buy only fresh, high-quality seed.

The overall recommendation suggest buying certified, disease-free seeds of bean, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, pea, etc. grown in Western states. This seed is carefully grown in irrigated regions where the humidity is low and many seed borne diseases are unknown. Such seed often benefits from a treatment to protect it against soil-borne micro-organisms capable of causing seed rot and damping-off. Tomato and other seedlings which are frequently shipped across state borders are carefully inspected by state officials before and during shipment to ensure as far as possible that the plants you buy are free of disease.

For those of you who prefer gardens that thrive on neglect” or do not have time for intensive gardening, try summer bulbs. May is the time to plant these. The results one achieves from planting these are marvelous. The common garden canna is truly a hardy member of this group. The dormant rhizomes are usually available in nearly every garden store. Look for vigorous varieties and fast growers. Clusters of bright red flowers are produced in quantity. Do not forget a good pink while or small-flowered oranges with bronze foliage. The foliage is as valuable as the flowers, in fact with many gardeners it is more valuable. In our area the rhizomes should be dug and stored for the winter.

A favorite summer bulb for many gardeners is the gladiolus. These old favorites have come a long way and with the new varieties that will grow to six feet… perhaps more than staking will be necessary.

To me one of the most gorgeous of summer bulbs is trigridia, sometimes called Mexican shell flower. Plant these bulbs about four inches deep during May in rich soil and full sun.

Even though they normally last only one day they are so unusual and dramatic that a few will cause excited sensation in any garden. Because they have very little foliage and are rather erect-growing, plant them among other plants for bright spots of color. By combining them with caladiums, especially white caladium, beautiful contrasts will be effected. The bulbs will not survive the winter in our section.

Best results are obtained with caladiums by pre-sprouting in trays of wet moss with the growing point pointing down in the moss. Many commercial growers now have these available as seasonal plant material and they can be purchased like other bedding plants. There are many varieties of the fancy leaf variety but the white is proving to be most popular. It is very effective in mass plantings among green ground cover or as facing down” plants in front of broadleaf evergreens or even in combination with ground cover grasses. They are especially effective in planter boxes or raised beds in partial shade. The plants tend to grow better if root bound and respond readily to feeding of liquid food.

Two other flowering bulbs of importance are the dahlia and tuberose. The dahlia will produce untold numbers of blooms with very little attention and will be in production until killing frost occurs. Tuberoses supply a source of very fragrant white blossoms during August. Some people object to the heavy perfume of these flowers but in the cool evening of the garden the perfume is delightful!

March is a month of great contrasts in the North. It may start in a mild, spring-like manner; it may be blustery. One week it’s fair: another it’s wintery. There may be green grass, there may be snow fields; you never can be sure of the weather or the appearance of the landscape. In the far North winter continues to reign, but in the southern part there are many signs of spring. The robins have arrived and the crocuses are sprouting. The Siberian scillas are waving their tiny, blue and white flowers and the strange blooms of the skunk cabbage can be seen by those who know where to look for them in marshy places.

Scillas and crocuses should be grown near the house, along-side a walk where they can be seen close at hand. They are too small and delicate to be viewed from afar. Nor should they be planted in lawns as is often recommended. They do not add beauty to a lawn, nor does a lawn contribute to their loveliness.

Actually they seem lost in a lawn and certainly they will be when the lawn mower cuts off their green tops after the flowers are gone. These plants must vegetate and manufacture food to be stored in the bulb which is used in producing next year’s flowers and foliage. The vegetating period lasts much longer than the 1 flowering period, consequently the l plants are subjected to a much reduced growth period when the mower must be used on the lawn.

Crocuses and scillas and the other very early flowering bulbs, snowflakes and snowdrops, are better grown along the edges of shrubbery beds and foundation plantings near the pathway lights. Just like what path lighting can do for your garden, here they brighten the bare ground while the woody plants still are dormant. Here they can complete their growth cycle without being in the way or distracting your brick garden paths.

Later on they leave the ground bare again and when the shrubs are in bloom there is no competition for attention. A fringe of color along the edge of foundation plantings is very acceptable as long as it lasts no longer than the blooms of crocus, scillas, etc. In the same manner, a planting of daffodils, hardy narcissus or Dutch hyacinths would not be gilding the lily’ if planted at the base of a tree because the life of these flowers is short and they disappear from sight when the tree comes to life.

I can see real beauty and desirability in a planting of this sort under a birch clump or maple. But I would not consider it good landscape art to plant petunias or geraniums or other plants that are showy for a long period at the foot of a tree. Both the tree and the plants suffer by each other’s association. Perhaps these are thoughts that should have been expressed in fall when bulbs are planted. However. I believe that they are appropriate now, too.

North February

February is an exceedingly trying month for the home gardener in the north central section of the country. The weather continues to keep him inactive as far as doing any actual gardening is concerned and he knows that there will be many weeks before the earth can be turned, seeds sown and plants set out in garden beds. He must be content to speculate, plan and prepare for the coming season.

February is a good month to get set for the gardening season. Now, rather than when the season begins is the time to check over garden supplies, seeds, tools and equipment. Tools should be examined for needed repairs, sharpening and the possibilities of replacements with new ones.

Power equipment should be gone over to be sure that it is in good working order. Overhauling can be done leisurely and with a certain amount of pleasure which would be absent if it is put off until the time comes when tools and equipment are actually needed to do garden work in spring.

These last few weeks of winter should be devoted to reading and studying plant culture and gardening practices. This can be almost as great a pleasure as active gardening itself.

Although it is true that we learn more about gardening through actual experience, there is none the less much to be learned from magazines, books and other publications. Many mistakes and negative experiences may be evaded as a result of reading up-to-date literature on plant culture and gardening activities.

Books that cover the entire subject of gardeningware especially recommended for beginners who need to acquire an over-all understanding of gardening methods and plant materials. Special subject books such as how to grow roses and gladiolus and their culture are important to those who want to specialize in the growing of certain kinds or types of plants.

Many pleasant and productive hours can be spent before the gardening season begins in reading and learning. But dont expect to learn everything, dont expect reading to substitute for true gardening experience. Also, dont permit yourself to become too confused by contradictory statements that you will be sure to find if you read enough.

As in other things, experts do not always agree, and besides, there is more than one way to grow, handle seeds and plants. Sometimes methods exactly opposite to each other produce equally successful results.

For this and other good reasons, don’t abandon a method that has proven successful for you for a new one, unless the latter has some very distinct advantages such as saving time and labor.

Blow Wind Blow and go garden go! Wind always creates problems in the garden but in March in the South the problem becomes acute. All gardeners know of the damage that results from plants whipping back and forth, being bruised or crushed against each other, the cutting action of the fine soil, and the silting action of the blowing dust. All these are bad. enough, but the real damage comes from the drying action of the winds the dehydration of plant tissues.

In this area there has been more, moisture during the last year than for, any previous season. For this reason many gardeners will neglect to supply needed moisture to the top soil, the layer in which feeder roots of plants are present. Many gardeners rely on winter mulches to prevent excessive drying of the top soil, and rightly so! But in at least half of our area even the mulch material is blown away, therefore surface watering becomes absolutely necessary.

The easiest method to water the garden at any time is by a permanent sprinkler system. More and more of these are being installed each year by gardeners.

Two thorough soakings given the garden during March at two week intervals should prevent dehydration damage. Root activity has already begun in the soil since the soil temperatures have reached 62 and stabilized, so water is vitally important now. Unless moisture is available when the plant needs it for proper development, the quantity and quality of the plant will suffer.

Summer flowering bulbs or tubers such as dahlias, cannas, caladiums, and tuberoses should be started now. These bulbs are usually stored during the winter through our area although in some parts they may have been left in the ground. If so, these should be lifted, divided and replanted now. In the case of the dahlia make sure that each tuber has a section of the old stem attached.

Unless this is present there cannot be any growth. For cannas and greenhouse bulbs, take them out of storage and cut the tubers into four-eye divisions. For early flowers from these, A pre-grow them in flats of sand to establish the growing points. When one leaf has reached six inches in length, plant the cannas outside the greenhouse in the permanent location. Many gardeners plant cannas just for the foliage. It is excellent for arrangements. Fancy-leaf caladiums may be sprouted by placing the growing point downward in a flat of wet moss for ten days.

After sprouting they may be potted in containers and replanted outside after they have become established. For sheer summer beauty try a planting of all white caladiums in front of Burford holly. This combination really looks cool on hot summer days. The crinums are a fascinating group of summer bulbs that should be given more place in our garden.