If you happen to notice small circular black spots, your plant probably has what is known as the Black Spot. The spots have fringed edges, and are a sign of a disease. Artificial sprays may be used to treat the spots, but the affected leaves should be removed from the plant, as remaining leaves will allow the disease to spread to the rest of the plant.

If you notice that the canes of your roses seem stunted or malformed, they probably have a fungal disease known as powdery mildew. Evidence of this is seen on the plant in white powder spread by the wind, and the leaves will start to curl and turn purple. It is best to treat the plant with Funginex or Benomyl to treat this fungal disease.

If you start to see orange-red blisters begin to form on leaves that turn black during the fall, you should collect the leaves that come down in the fall, as they are signs of a disease called rust. Removal of the leaves is important as the disease can survive the winter and attack new sprouts in the spring. Spray with Benomyl or Funginex every 7-10 days.

If the leaves or the flowers of the plant appear to be stunted or malformed, you may have spider-mites living on the rose. They are easily found, yellow, red, or green spiders usually found on the undersides of the leaves, where they proceed to suck the juice from leaves. Use Orthene or Isotox to take care of the infestation.

If you notice mottled leaves, or if the leaves have small white webs under them, chances are it was caused by aphids. The brown, green, or red bugs have a soft body, and are often found clustered underneath the leaves and flower buds, and will also suck juices from tender buds. You can treat this with Malathion or Diazinon spray.

If your flowers don’t open, or are deformed when they open, Thrips could be the reason behind the problem. They are slender, brown-yellow bugs with fringed wings that also suck juices from flower buds. Cut and discard the infested flowers. Orthene and malathion may also treat this problem.

Spring rolls around and its time to dip into the pocket book and start getting ready for the summer. There’s planting to be done, and repairs to do. Perhaps there’s a landscaping project on the horizon.

Once the plans are in place and the items are bought its time to get out the tools. Now this is where the real challenge begins. Where did you put them last fall? Probably find some in the basement and then there’s that corner of the garage that has some of the bigger ones. Oh yes don’t forget about the spare room probably tucked some away in there too.

This has all got to tell you something. As if you really need, a garden shed. It’s going to save you time and money in the long run. It’s going to save you time because all of your outdoor tools and equipment can be stored in one place. That means when you are in need of something you can just go and get it because you know where it is. When your garden and outdoor implements are scattered all over the place, it takes a lot of time just remembering where they are and then the search is on.

Money wise they save you a great deal. One of your agreements against the garden shed investment may be you just don’t want to put out that kind of money after all you’ve managed so far.

The longer you live in a house the more you accumulate. You may have managed up until now but the time is coming sooner or later you just won’t have enough storage space.

Yes, it’s going to cost you money to buy your garden shed. Think of it this way though how much has you spent on soil weeding products and fertilizer. You use a portion of them then one of two things happen. You let them sit outside where they get destroyed by the elements, or secondly you end up throwing them out because there is no place to put them.

Most of the lawn and garden equipment that you have probably purchased has not been cheap either. When it’s not stored properly, it can become damaged or even ruined. The other thing to consider is some of the equipment is not safe to be laying around especially where there are young children.

Finally, a garden shed really does add to the ambience of the landscaping. It makes it look neat and just shows that someone really cares about their outdoors. If you aren’t sure, what style to get just look around your neighborhood and you will get a good idea. You need to base your choice according to your needs. If you don’t own a lot of garden supplies and equipment then one of the smaller ones will work nicely. Don’t forget though that those winter items can be conveniently stored here as well so plan your required space accordingly. Once you have got past the fact that you had to lay some money out for your shed you are going to be most glad that you did.

Vines and Ground covers If you live in the warm SOUTHERN STATES

CAROLINA YELLOW JESSAMINE - Is a showy twining vine reaching 30 feet in length with yellow flowers in spring and wine-red foliage in winter. While it will grow in sun, it prefers some shade and a slightly acid soil. Look for it under the scientific name of Gelsemium sempervirens.

CREEPING FIG - Found clinging to walls of old New Orleans buildings this handsome vine is favored for modern gardens too. Nurseries list it as Ficus pumila. It likes a slightly acid soil, and thrives in sun or shade.

SOUTHERN SMILAX - Tendrils support this vine on arbors where it may be kept in bounds by pruning. Fruit clusters last well into the winter, and the foliage is sought for Christmas decorations. Botanically minded people call it Smilax lem- ceolutcz. It likes a moist, acid soil and some shade, but does well in ordinary garden soil and in the sun.

ENGLISH IVY - Called Hedera Helix, this vine and ground cover has many varieties some with variegated foliage and most of which are hardy outdoors in the South. It forms a low mat-like cover in sun or shade and some varieties reach 50 feet in height climbing a wall or tree.

CROSS-VINE - Red brown flowers in May distinguish this handsome vine whose tendrils secure it to a fence or trellis. Give it acid soil and either shade or sun. Its scientific name is Bienonia capreolata.

CARPET BUGLE-WEED - In spring spikes of blue flowers appear on this ground-hugging plant, which thrives in the shade but which also does well in sun. Its only demand is a friable and fairly fertile soil. It is listed in catalogs as Ajuga reptans.

COMMON PERIWINKLE - A dependable ground cover for sun or shade, Vinca minor has good blue flowers in spring. Any soil seems to please it and it rarely grows over 6 inches high. Use it beneath trees, under shrubs or in difficult to mow areas.

CONFEDERATE JASMINE - A strong grower, Trachelospermum jasminoides twines on fences and pergolas in the lower and mid-South but needs protection in the colder areas. Its white spring flowers are sweetly scented, and its foliage is glossy green. The flowers along with stephanotis floribunda flowers are popularly used in wedding bouquets. Just like stephanotis vine or Madagascar Jasmine, plant it in a neutral or acid soil in sun or partial shade.

JAPANESE PACHYSANDRA - For large shaded areas this coarse textured ground cover 8 to 10 inches high is ideal. It likes an acid soil well supplied with humus. Nurseries sometimes list it as Pachysandra terminals.

LILY-TURF - ln any good garden soil in sun or shade this low growing grass-like ground cover finds a home. Known almost equally as well as liriope, there are several varieties worth investigating: Liriope exifiora, Liriope japonicus, Liriope muscari var. Majestic. All have good lavender flowers and may be used to border walks or beds, or cover banks.

Any corrective pruning should be finished in February. Remember to paint all wounds over one inch in diameter with a pliable water-proof paint. This prevents drying out and checking of the wood and resultant decay and also prevents the entrance of disease or insects.

Do not prune the early flowering shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, spirea, quince, currant, red bud, peach, etc., until after flowering as any material removed now will reduce the number of flowers. Prune these after flowering to encourage new growth for blooms next year.

This is the month to do shearing or pruning of evergreens as they are usually unsightly after this operation, but with the beginning of new growth, they are unsightly for a shorter period of time. Prune the flowering shrubs that bear their blooms on new wood like althea, vitex, crape myrtle, and buddleia - this will stimulate flower production.

Whatever pruning you do, especially on your shade grapes trees, be sure you know what you are doing or call a recognized tree surgeon. Do not butcher your trees or allow inexperienced “tree surgeons” to do so. Irreparable damage can be done and often results in the death of the tree.

Birds

Repair and paint the bird houses early and get ready for new tenants. Birds do not care for the smell of paint, so allow time enough for the smell to weather out. Avoid the use of metal on bird houses or feeding stations it reflects light and is also noisy, both of which will scare birds. Remember, they are extremely wary and are easily frightened away, never to return.

Encourage your youngsters to provide and care for the facilities for the birds. They will very soon become “bird-watchers,” giving them a wholesome pastime and invaluable training in conservation and nature study.

February is the month to bring in potted tulips, daffodils and other bulbs and start them to growing. Keep in a fairly cool place until the foliage turns green and then keep the temperatures under 60 degrees until the buds form. This will prevent ungainly growth or “leggy” stems.

Feed with liquid food after the foliage turns green to improve the overall quality of the blooms. This feeding gives intensity of color and beautiful substance to the petals as well as increasing the size of bloom.

On those few days of inclement weather, rework the house plants. For those plants that have spindled, or “leggy” growth, due to lack of sunshine or crowded conditions, pinch back to stimulate new growth and bloom. Take out a little of the, top soil in the pot and replace with fresh potting soil. Feed lightly with liquid food or a dissolved commercial fertilizer.

Divide or make cuttings of the plants that have spent the winter indoors and will soon be planted in the garden border such as geraniums, coleus, hibiscus, Jacobs coat, etc. Prepare the potted plants for a return to “garden duty” during the summer months.

Many such plants provide a point of accent or spot of color in a garden or patio design.

All untreated seeds carry on or within them microscopic fungi and bacteria. Hundreds of kinds of seed-borne organisms, capable of causing plant diseases exist. These fungi and bacteria may cause seeds to decay in the soil and young seedlings, bulbs, corms or rhizomes to rot before or after shoots emerge from the soil.

Organisms carried on the seed may also be the source of certain types of dwarfing or stunting, root rots, smuts, wilts, mildews, leaf spot and blights, stripe diseases, etc., which later appear on the growing plant.

Practically all vegetable and flower seeds benefit from seed treatment. Seed protectants, properly applied at the recommended dosage, destroy seed-borne organisms on and in the seed, check seed-rotting fungi in the soil, help establish a higher percentage of more vigorous seedlings, plus producing bigger yields of higher quality vegetables and flowers.

No other garden practice produces such benefits for so little money and time. Seed treatment is cheap garden insurance.

Influencing Factors

Certain factors influence the infection of seed and young seedlings by micro-organisms.

1 - Climatic conditions during the latter part of the growing season of the seed-producing mother plant. Some organisms may enter seed about the time of pollination, particularly if the period is humid. or wet.

2 - State of maturity when seed is harvested.

3 - Climatic conditions just before and during harvest. If the seed is too dry at harvest it is easily damaged. Organisms then enter through the cracks in the seed coat. If seeds harvested too wet it may mold and not even germinate later. Seed which is harvested with a high moisture content should be carefully dried.

4 - The method used and rapidity of artificial drying may greatly change the numbers of organisms on and in the seed.

5 - Conditions of seed storage and duration of storage. Seeds stored with a high moisture content may “spoil” or “heat,” killing the germ in the seed. Each kind of seed` should be stored under carefully regulated conditions and be checked periodically. Older seed becomes weak and should be discarded.

The above factors are good reasons why you should buy- seed, only from established, reputable seed dealers. Check with your county agent or extension horticulturist if you are not sure of the seed source or distributor. Ask the salesman what the germination percentage is of the seed you buy. Frequently it is stamped right on the package.

Most vegetable seed, especially that sold by the better seedsmen, has a high germination percentage (85 per cent or more), excellent beauty insurance and is free from seed borne diseases and garden weed seeds. Some of this seed has already been treated by the time you purchase it.

It is not too uncommon to find packets of flower seeds which have a zero germination. Is it any wonder sometimes that the seed doesn’t sprout?

Reputable seedsmen call in all unsold seed each year to be sure you buy only fresh, high-quality seed.

The overall recommendation suggest buying certified, disease-free seeds of bean, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, pea, etc. grown in Western states. This seed is carefully grown in irrigated regions where the humidity is low and many seed borne diseases are unknown. Such seed often benefits from a treatment to protect it against soil-borne micro-organisms capable of causing seed rot and damping-off. Tomato and other seedlings which are frequently shipped across state borders are carefully inspected by state officials before and during shipment to ensure as far as possible that the plants you buy are free of disease.

For those of you who prefer gardens that thrive on neglect” or do not have time for intensive gardening, try summer bulbs. May is the time to plant these. The results one achieves from planting these are marvelous. The common garden canna is truly a hardy member of this group. The dormant rhizomes are usually available in nearly every garden store. Look for vigorous varieties and fast growers. Clusters of bright red flowers are produced in quantity. Do not forget a good pink while or small-flowered oranges with bronze foliage. The foliage is as valuable as the flowers, in fact with many gardeners it is more valuable. In our area the rhizomes should be dug and stored for the winter.

A favorite summer bulb for many gardeners is the gladiolus. These old favorites have come a long way and with the new varieties that will grow to six feet… perhaps more than staking will be necessary.

To me one of the most gorgeous of summer bulbs is trigridia, sometimes called Mexican shell flower. Plant these bulbs about four inches deep during May in rich soil and full sun.

Even though they normally last only one day they are so unusual and dramatic that a few will cause excited sensation in any garden. Because they have very little foliage and are rather erect-growing, plant them among other plants for bright spots of color. By combining them with caladiums, especially white caladium, beautiful contrasts will be effected. The bulbs will not survive the winter in our section.

Best results are obtained with caladiums by pre-sprouting in trays of wet moss with the growing point pointing down in the moss. Many commercial growers now have these available as seasonal plant material and they can be purchased like other bedding plants. There are many varieties of the fancy leaf variety but the white is proving to be most popular. It is very effective in mass plantings among green ground cover or as facing down” plants in front of broadleaf evergreens or even in combination with ground cover grasses. They are especially effective in planter boxes or raised beds in partial shade. The plants tend to grow better if root bound and respond readily to feeding of liquid food.

Two other flowering bulbs of importance are the dahlia and tuberose. The dahlia will produce untold numbers of blooms with very little attention and will be in production until killing frost occurs. Tuberoses supply a source of very fragrant white blossoms during August. Some people object to the heavy perfume of these flowers but in the cool evening of the garden the perfume is delightful!

March is a month of great contrasts in the North. It may start in a mild, spring-like manner; it may be blustery. One week it’s fair: another it’s wintery. There may be green grass, there may be snow fields; you never can be sure of the weather or the appearance of the landscape. In the far North winter continues to reign, but in the southern part there are many signs of spring. The robins have arrived and the crocuses are sprouting. The Siberian scillas are waving their tiny, blue and white flowers and the strange blooms of the skunk cabbage can be seen by those who know where to look for them in marshy places.

Scillas and crocuses should be grown near the house, along-side a walk where they can be seen close at hand. They are too small and delicate to be viewed from afar. Nor should they be planted in lawns as is often recommended. They do not add beauty to a lawn, nor does a lawn contribute to their loveliness.

Actually they seem lost in a lawn and certainly they will be when the lawn mower cuts off their green tops after the flowers are gone. These plants must vegetate and manufacture food to be stored in the bulb which is used in producing next year’s flowers and foliage. The vegetating period lasts much longer than the 1 flowering period, consequently the l plants are subjected to a much reduced growth period when the mower must be used on the lawn.

Crocuses and scillas and the other very early flowering bulbs, snowflakes and snowdrops, are better grown along the edges of shrubbery beds and foundation plantings near the pathway lights. Just like what path lighting can do for your garden, here they brighten the bare ground while the woody plants still are dormant. Here they can complete their growth cycle without being in the way or distracting your brick garden paths.

Later on they leave the ground bare again and when the shrubs are in bloom there is no competition for attention. A fringe of color along the edge of foundation plantings is very acceptable as long as it lasts no longer than the blooms of crocus, scillas, etc. In the same manner, a planting of daffodils, hardy narcissus or Dutch hyacinths would not be gilding the lily’ if planted at the base of a tree because the life of these flowers is short and they disappear from sight when the tree comes to life.

I can see real beauty and desirability in a planting of this sort under a birch clump or maple. But I would not consider it good landscape art to plant petunias or geraniums or other plants that are showy for a long period at the foot of a tree. Both the tree and the plants suffer by each other’s association. Perhaps these are thoughts that should have been expressed in fall when bulbs are planted. However. I believe that they are appropriate now, too.